Four methods to get the apple tree autumn shears

The fruit tree autumn shear is trimmed at the beginning of the autumn shoot of the fruit tree. Autumn shears can improve the lighting conditions of trees, save nutrient consumption, increase organic nutrient accumulation, and increase the output of the year. This edition pays attention to the autumn shears of apples, cherries, apricots, walnuts and other fruit trees, in order to provide scientific guidance for the majority of fruit farmers.

Yan Zhihui, director of the Fengxiang County Horticultural Station in Baoji City, Shaanxi Province, suggested fruit growers. When the apples were cut in autumn, the trees in the autumn shoots stopped early and the trees were cut early. The trees that were parked in the late night were generally cut within 20 to 30 days before the leaves (August). Completed from mid-to-late October. At the same time, he also proposed the following four autumn shear methods.

The branches and leaves of the trees in the autumn are densely covered. In the fruit-bearing period, the excessively-supported branches and large-scale auxiliary branches should be removed from the trees. The light path can be removed. One or two large branches can be removed within one year, which can be completed in years. Otherwise, Weaken the tree; the first result branches and the 2 to 3 year old saplings should be removed from the peripheral erect branches, the competition branches, the inner branches and the long branches, and the young stalks that are cut at the back of the slashing and slashing (cutting) parts. Autumn shoots to supplement the internal light to prevent nutrient consumption. If there is fruit on the branch that needs to be removed, it should be removed after harvesting or cutting in summer. When there is too much autumn rain, the inner stalks are constantly sprouting and growing, and it is necessary to do the germination of the buds.

Light-cutting and picking the heart in the autumn, the young part of the new shoots are lightly cut and topped, which can effectively control the growth of new shoots, reduce nutrient consumption, increase nutrient accumulation of the tree, and promote the formation of flower buds. From the beginning of August to the middle and late September, the unsupported auxiliary branches will be lightly picked or capped. The densely planted orchard can also be topped for 25 times per length of the outer extension head, and the inner lychee tip is topped for about 15 centimeters per length and picked up to the semi-lignin. This can alleviate the growth potential and promote the formation of autumn buds, in order to facilitate the formation of good results. It can also control the growth and flower-promoting effects of the erect branches on the back of the branches or the main branches on the back.

Pulling the branches and slowing down the autumn branches can improve the light, alleviate the tree potential, and promote the transformation of the tree from vegetative growth to reproductive growth. Moreover, the branches are soft at this time, and the branches can prevent the base from splitting. In autumn, the branches of the backbone, the auxiliary branches and the temporary auxiliary branches are usually opened. The main branches are 70 to 80 degrees, and the temporary branches and auxiliary branches are 90 to 100 degrees. Before pulling the branch, soften the base angle to the standard of pulling the branch, and then pull the branch to the desired position and angle.

Lychee softening in early August to late September, when the new shoots are close to stop or have been lignified, it is necessary to extend the erect new shoots or the main branches on the back of the head. And the roots of the canopy in the canopy of 1~2 years old are not softened. Hold the base of the branch 7-10 cm by hand, then repeatedly bend (pinch) the branches from the inside out, do not damage the leaves, and damage the branches to the vascular bundles in the branches to make a crisp break, while on the branches Cracks appear on the outside. It is best to carry out 2 to 3 times every 7 to 10 days to inhibit the growth of the apex, and promote the formation of short and short branches in the lateral buds, laying a foundation for the formation of flower buds in the same year or the next year.

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